Lawn Mowers and Brush Cutters: The Complete Guide to Pre-Season Maintenance (Before the Grass Overwhelms You)

Every year, as predictable as the first warm sun in March, the same thing happens in our store and workshop in Castione. The phone starts ringing and the yard fills up with customers wearing the same frustrated expression: “I wanted to do the first cut on Saturday, but the lawn mower refuses to start”.

It’s the classic early season scenario. The machine has been sitting idle in the garage or basement for 4-5 months and now it’s rebelling.

The truth, based on our daily experience as mechanics, is that 90% of early spring problems can be avoided with half an hour of maintenance done now, during winter.

In this guide, we won’t just talk about how to choose a new machine, but how to make your existing ones like new again, ready for the battle against tall grass.

Enemy Number One: “Old Fuel”

If we were asked about the main cause of breakdowns we see in the workshop in spring, the answer would be unanimous: regular gasoline left in the tank for months.
Modern fuel isn’t made to last. After 30-60 days it starts to degrade, creating gums and varnishes that clog the carburetor. Result? The engine won’t start, or starts and stops immediately, and often requires expensive ultrasonic carburetor cleaning in the workshop.
Expert advice: If you know the machine will be idle for more than a month, you have two options:
Completely empty the tank and carburetor (run it until it stops by itself).
(Recommended) Use alkylate fuel (like STIHL MotoMix) for the last cut and storage. It doesn’t degrade and can stay in the tank for years without causing damage.
STIHL Motomix e Carburanti

Lawn Mower Focus: You’re Not Cutting, You’re Tearing.

Another classic mistake is forgetting about the blade. After a season of hitting stones, branches, and dirt, your lawn mower blade doesn’t cut anymore: it tears.

A torn grass blade yellows at the tip, becomes more susceptible to disease, and the lawn looks ugly and dry after cutting.

Lawn Mower Checklist:

1. Blade Sharpening and Balancing: Remove it (carefully!) and have it sharpened. Balancing is crucial to prevent vibrations that damage the engine.
2. Oil Change (for 4-stroke engines): Engine oil degrades. Start the season with fresh oil (SAE 30 specific for lawn mowers). Your engine will thank you by lasting twice as long.
3. Air Filter: It’s the machine’s “lung.” If it’s clogged with dust and dry grass, the engine “suffocates,” uses more fuel and performs poorly. Clean or replace it.

Rasaerba e Tagliaerba

Brush Cutter Focus: Grease and Head

The brush cutter is a workhorse, but it has weak points that are often ignored.

Brush Cutter Checklist:

1. The Bevel Gear (The Unknown Component): It’s the gear at the end of the shaft where the head rotates. Almost nobody knows, but there’s a screw for adding specific bevel gear grease. If it runs dry, it overheats and breaks (and it’s an expensive replacement!). Check it every 20 hours of work.
2. The Head: Is it still good? Is the plastic worn? It’s time to reload with fresh line (old line becomes dry and breaks easily).
3. Spark Plug: Checking the spark plug after winter is mandatory. If it’s black or encrusted, replace it. It’s inexpensive and ensures easy starts.

Decespugliatori Filo e Testine

FAQ: Most Frequent Workshop Questions (SEO)

We’ve collected the most common questions you ask at the counter, to give you quick and clear answers.

(Use the “FAQ” block from SEO Press Pro for this section if possible)

Is line or blade better for the brush cutter?

It depends on what you’re cutting.

• Nylon line: Ideal for green grass, edges, trimming near walls and plants (doesn’t damage them).
• Metal blade (or disc): Necessary for tall and dry grass, brambles, weeds, and small shrubs. Never use it near walls or fences!

I left regular gasoline inside all winter. What should I do?

Don’t even try to start it. Empty all the old fuel from the tank (take it to the recycling center, don’t pour it down the drain!). Add fresh fuel (preferably alkylate) and try. If it doesn’t start after a few attempts, the carburetor is probably already dirty and needs workshop service.

How often should I change the lawn mower oil?

The general rule is once per season or every 25-50 hours of work (check your engine manual). Doing it at the start of spring is the best practice.

Battery or Gas Engine: What’s best for me today?

For most residential private gardens, today the battery (like the STIHL AP or AK system) is the winner. No old fuel problems, no noise, no smell, minimal maintenance, and power levels are now equivalent to gas engines for hobby/semi-professional use. Gas engines remain king for large areas, very tall grass, and intense all-day professional use.

Conclusion: Better to Prevent (Now) than Cure (in March)

Dedicating an hour now to your machines will save you time, money, and frustration when the grass starts growing visibly.

No time or desire to get your hands dirty? No problem. Our workshop in Castione is available for complete pre-season servicing. Bring us your machines now, before the “big rush” in March, and we’ll return them ready to start at the first pull.